Plant watering and care guide.

Trees

Watering

• Newly planted trees need a deep soak so roots grow down, not out. A good rule of thumb is 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter, twice a week. A tree with a 2-inch trunk needs 20 gallons each time.
• Once a tree is established, usually after 1 to 2 years, it only needs deep watering about every other week, using 15 gallons per inch of trunk diameter.
• Water at the drip line, the area under the outermost branches, not right against the trunk.
• Use a slow trickle so the water soaks deep and doesn't run off.

Pruning

• Light pruning of dead, broken or rubbing branches can be done at any time.
• Major pruning should be done in late winter or very early spring, before leaves come in. This helps avoid stress and disease.
• Avoid cutting large limbs or topping. Both can permanently harm your tree.

Perennials, annuals and shrubs

Watering

• Most newly planted perennials and annuals need about 2 gallons of water per week, spread over two or three waterings.
• Larger shrubs may need 10 to 12 gallons per week, especially in hot weather or dry spells.
• Always check the soil first. If it feels moist 1 to 2 inches below the surface, wait before watering again.
• Water 2 to 5 inches away from the base of the plant to keep the leaves dry. Wet leaves can lead to fungus or mildew.
• Early morning is best. It gives the plant time to dry before nightfall.

Pruning and deadheading

• Deadheading, or removing spent flowers, keeps annuals blooming longer.
• Most perennials benefit from being cut back in late fall after the first frost, or in early spring before new growth starts.
• Some, like ornamental grasses and black-eyed Susans, can be left standing for winter interest and cut back in spring.

Sod and new lawns

New sod needs more water than local rules normally allow. Ask your water provider about an establishment permit before installation day.

The day it's installed

• Soak it deeply as soon as the sod is down. Water every zone for 45 to 60 minutes to saturate the sod and the soil below, so the roots start bonding with the ground.

First 2 weeks

• Water at least 3 times per day, every day.
• Each cycle, run pop-up spray heads for 15 minutes or rotary heads for 30 minutes.
• The goal is to keep the sod constantly moist, not soggy, and never let it dry out.

Weeks 3 and 4

• Cut back slowly. Drop to once a day, then to every other day by the end of week 4.
• Start mowing once the grass reaches about 3 inches. Make sure the ground is firm enough to walk and mow on without leaving deep footprints.

Signs it needs more water

• The grass looks bluish-purple.
• Blades wilt or curl.
• Gaps open between pieces of sod.
• Grass turns straw-colored, or shows footprints after you walk on it.

Aftercare

• Avoid foot traffic for the first 3 weeks, especially kids, pets and lawn equipment.
• Pet urine causes yellow spots. Try to direct pets to another part of the yard.
• Don't fertilize new sod until after the first mow, and use a starter or balanced fertilizer.

Winter watering, November to March

Colorado winters are dry, and plants can suffer without moisture even while dormant.

• Water once or twice a month on warm, sunny days above 40°F.
• Focus on newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials.
• Water at midday so moisture soaks in before nighttime temperatures freeze it.
• If there's been no snow for 3 to 4 weeks, your plants are likely thirsty, especially evergreens and anything planted recently.
• Your sprinkler system should be blown out for winter, so use a hose and disconnect it afterward.

Fertilizing

• New plantings generally don't need fertilizer right away. Over-fertilizing can burn tender roots.
• For trees and shrubs, wait 4 to 6 weeks, or until the following spring, before feeding.
• Use a slow-release, balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10, as directed on the label.
• For lawns, apply starter fertilizer after the first mow. Use it sparingly and follow the label.

General plant care

• Check moisture before watering. Push a finger 2 to 3 inches into the soil. If it's damp, hold off.
• Drip irrigation and soaker hoses are the most efficient ways to water. They keep water in the root zone and reduce evaporation.
• Shady areas need much less water than spots in full sun.
• Avoid watering late in the day, especially in cooler weather. It raises the chance of mildew and fungus.
• Look over your plants weekly, especially during the first 6 to 8 weeks after planting.

Paver patios and concrete

• Stay off new concrete until we tell you it's ready, and keep vehicles off a new driveway for at least the first week.
• Avoid rock salt and other chloride deicers on concrete, especially in its first winter. Use sand for traction instead.
• Sealed and colored concrete needs resealing every few years. Ask us when yours is due.
• Sweep pavers and rinse them with a hose. Skip the pressure washer at close range, since it can blow the polymeric sand out of the joints.
• If joint sand ever washes out or a paver settles, call us. Pavers can be lifted and reset without replacing the patio.

Your sprinkler system through the year

• Spring: turn the system on slowly, run each zone and look for broken heads, leaks and spray hitting pavement.
• Summer: adjust run times with the weather instead of leaving one schedule all season, and follow your provider's watering days and hours.
• Fall: have the system blown out with compressed air before hard freezes arrive. Water left in the lines cracks pipe, valves and backflow devices.